Sunday, May 9, 2010

So when is it time for a new riding helmet?

A student who recently experienced an unplanned dismount and landed on her head said she checked it for cracks and it was fine. (Her helmet, not her head!) Is it, really? Turns out, manufacturers recommend replacement after *any* impact, even if there's no visible damage. While that might sound like a ploy to sell more helmets, there's a good reason to follow their advice.

We all know that safety helmets (for any activity) are designed to reduce the effects of an impact and protect your brain from traumatic injury. How do they do that? Essentially, the materials are designed to break down to absorb and distribute the energy of the impact. In the most extreme cases, this will result in obvious deformations and cracks. When a helmet cracks as the result of an impact, it's not a sign that the helmet failed, it's a sign that it did its job. (And a pretty good indication of what might have happened to your head if you hadn't been wearing one.)

While it's obvious that you need a new helmet if it's split in two or smooshed on one side, the internal structure of the helmet can be compromised by *any* significant impact. Once it's compromised, the helmet's ability to protect your head from future accidents is greatly reduced. And there's no way to tell by looking at a helmet whether or not it's going to work the next time.

This is why manufacturers say that any helmet involved in an accident should be replaced immediately. In fact, motorcycle helmet manufacturers recommend replacing any helmet that has even been dropped on the ground! It might seem like an unnecessary expense, but let's put it in perspective. You've only got one brain. The human skull can be shattered by an impact of 4-6 mph. An average horse walks at about 4 mph, trots at 9 mph, canters at 15 mph, and can gallop at 30 mph. (Quarter horses have been clocked at 50 mph over short distances!)

So you might be patting yourself on the back thinking no sweat, I've had it for years but my helmet's never hit the dirt (or a jump standard, fence, tree, etc.). Not so fast...

How Long Have You Had Your Helmet?

Did you know your helmet has an expiration date? Recommendations vary by manufacturer, but in general you should replace your helmet at least every 5 years, no matter what. The materials break down over time, especially under extreme temperatures.

Do you keep your helmet in your car? You might want to think about replacing it every two or three years, as the high temperatures accelerate the deterioration of the materials that are supposed to protect the jello-like substance that's your brain.

But a New Helmet is Expensive!

Remember that bit about only having one brain? You can get a brand-new ASTM/SEI approved schooling helmet for $25. A super nice, comfy International ATH helmet will set you back about $150. If you really splurge, you can spend up to about $250 for a super-light, high-tech helmet. While it might be a bit more comfortable, there's really no functional difference between the $25 helmet and the $250 helmet. Any properly-fitted, approved helmet serves the same purpose. Which brings up another issue that's probably a topic for another post...

How Do I Know My Helmet Fits?

A good fit is essential--just having a helmet on your head isn't enough! To protect your head, your helmet needs to stay in the proper position even if you're being tossed around like a puppet. First off, you ALWAYS need to secure the harness, and it should be snug without restricting movement or being uncomfortable. However, the helmet should fit close enough around your head that it stays in place without the harness buckled. You should be able to give a sharp nod without the helmet slipping.

That said, you don't want it to be so tight that it gives you a headache! This is where the differences between helmets and manufacturers really stand out. Not everyone's head is the same shape! Many newer helmets are equipped with an adjustable harness system that give more flexibility in the fit. Some manufacturers offer helmets for different-shaped heads, such as round vs. oval. Other manufacturers aim for an "average" shape--which works for some, but more often seems to average out to a poor fit for the majority of riders.

Bottom line? Have your instructor check the fit of your new helmet before you ride in it. Or better yet, ask for their input before you go shopping.

A Few References...






Friday, April 2, 2010

Slithery Friends


When the weather starts to warm up, the local snakes come out of their winter hibernation. You're most likely to see them when the nights are cool and the days are warm, but they are active throughout the Spring, Summer, and Fall.

Most "snake sightings" are King Snakes or Gopher Snakes, but this is also Rattlesnake territory. We like ALL of them—they're part of nature's rodent control system.

Rattlesnake Facts
  • Rattlesnakes can strike at distances up to 2/3 their own length.
  • It's possible for a rattlesnake not to have a rattle. Baby rattlesnakes don't have a functional rattle until they molt for the first time and adults occasionally lose theirs.
  • 25% of adult rattlesnake bites are dry, with no venom injected.
  • Baby rattlers are more dangerous because they have less control over the amount of venom they inject.
  • About 800 people in California are bitten by rattlesnakes each year and more than 99% of them survive.
Dos and Don'ts in Snake Territory

The best way to avoid being bitten by a snake (rattlesnake or otherwise) is to LEAVE IT ALONE!
  • NEVER stick your hands or feet anywhere you can't see them! This includes in piles of loose hay and under the pallets.
  • If you see a snake, DO NOT try to move, catch, scare, or kill it. If it's resting someplace where there's lots of foot traffic, let other folks know so they don't accidentally tangle with it.
To make sure you don't accidentally have a close-encounter with one of our slithery friends:
  • Avoid taking shortcuts through tall grass or weeds. Walk or hike in areas where the ground is clear, so you can see where you step or reach with your hands.

  • Make plenty of noise so that they have the opportunity to retreat. Rattlesnakes can sense that we're too big to eat and will only bite a human if they feel threatened.

  • Wear gloves when using your hands to move pallets, jump standards, rocks, or brush.

  • If you're working in the weeds, wear protective clothing such as long, heavy pants and high boots.

If you have small children, it's important to keep a close eye on them and keep them on the main walkways and out of the tall grass and weeds.

Name That Snake...

Have you seen any of these snakes around the barn or your house? Do you know which ones are poisonous?

Not sure? The answers are at the end of this post.

First Aid for Snakebites

If you or someone you're with is bitten by a rattlesnake or suspected rattlesnake, it should be treated as a medical emergency. Call 911 or proceed immediately to the nearest emergency room.

In the meantime:
  • Stay calm. It can be extremely painful, but rarely fatal.
  • Remove any jewelry or tight-fitting clothing that could constrict swelling.
  • Gently wash the bite wound with soap and water.
  • Immobilize the affected area and keep it below the level of the heart.
DO NOT:
  • Apply ice
  • Attempt to "suck the venom out"
  • Apply a tourniquet
  • Administer aspirin or other NSAIDs
  • Elevate the affected area
What if my Horse or Dog Gets Bitten?

Horses tend to have a milder reaction to rattlesnake bites than humans. In fact, horses have traditionally been used to produce antivenin. Like with humans, the bite should be treated like a puncture wound. Keep the horse calm, clean the wound, and consult the vet immediately regarding further treatment. Bites on the nose or face can be life-threatening if the swelling impedes breathing. If necessary, 6" pieces of garden hose or hollow tubing can be inserted into the nostrils to keep the airway open.

Reactions vary in dogs (and cats), but rattlesnake bites can be life-threatening. Keep your pet calm and seek veterinary care immediately. (Call ahead to determine the nearest clinic that's prepared to treat snakebites.) It's generally advised NOT to attempt to clean the wound on your own, just head to the clinic. If your pet lives, works, or plays where there are rattlesnakes, ask your vet about the rattlesnake vaccine.

Want to Know More?
Answers
Row 1: Mountain King Snake, Ringnecked Snake, Garter Snake, King Snake
Row 2: Gopher Snake, Western Diamondback Rattlesnake, Speckled Rattlesnake
Only the rattlesnakes are poisonous. Note that not all rattlesnakes have the distinctive diamond pattern. The Mountain King Snake is sometimes mistaken for the very venomous Arizona Coral Snake, which is not found in California.